Published: May 16, 2007 - Hartford Advocate
By EMILY DREYFUSS

Rarely is dessert the best part of a great meal, but when it is everything seems right in the world. The other day I was driving around starving at dinner time, hoping my car would find its own way to a great undiscovered restaurant and dreading it would just take me home where I’d have to cook something out of nothing. Somehow, by the grace of someone, I found my way to O’Porto on Park Street.

The whole restaurant is classy, warm and friendly. After the torre de carne salad and an order of the spicy and awesome mariscada Portuguesa, I decided to linger and try the desserts and coffee.

The espresso and almond cheesecake was to die for. It’s the type of dessert you have to eat slowly, for fear that the flavor overload might do you in for good. Sweeter than any cheesecake I’ve ever had, this was more like light amaretto mouse. Dusted with a thin layer of chocolate, each bite had the perfect combination of sweetness tempered by a subtle bitterness. There was a sharp kick to the aftertaste so the dessert was never cloying. And the crust was soaked in brandy. Needles to say, if there had been any room in my belly, I’d have eaten another piece.

Espresso and almond cheesecake is $7 at O’Porto Restaurant, 2074 Park St., Hartford, (860) 233-3184.